“…a series of free online tutorials guiding you through the basics of sewing, from setting up your machine, to understanding sewing patterns, and finishing your seams.”
Saving this for later cause I’m getting rusty as a muggerbugger
reblogging because i need to learn and my mom has a sewing machine exactly like this one
saving for my brother he says I’m not the best teacher
(Source: , via nom-nom-keiko)
Look: these boots are very, very simple. Actually sewing them together is no problem once you’ve got it drafted.
It is, essentially, a sock. A sock with a fancy cuff, with a sole glued to the bottom. It is also zipper-free. You are going to make a sock that fits over a shoe, and you are going to use a knife to peel off the edges of the sole, tuck the fabric under, and then glue the soles back in place so you have a nice, clean edge.
You will need:
- Spandex fabric in whatever color you need.
- Extra spandex fabric with the same amount of stretch for drafting your pattern.
- Pattern paper.
- A pair of ballet flats (or whatever shoe type you need.) Make sure you get the right “shape”; Supergirl’s boots, for example, have a pointed toe, and look out for sole color; we usually just go with black because anything else will get dirty/paint will chip. You also want to find one with an easily removed sole; as a general rule, the cheaper the shoe, the easier time you’ll have with it. We usually spend about $5 tops on our flats, haha. If you’re trying to do heels, be very, very cautious; if you damage the structural integrity of the shoe, you might be in some trouble when you need to walk on them. You also want to make sure they are as basic as possible; remove any bows and whatever possible.
- An exacto knife.
- Hot glue
- Usual sewing implements; pins, scissors, rulers, whatever.
You can draft it yourself easily: take your scrap fabric and wrap it around your leg as I’ve pictured above in the pink, and pin it along the back. You want to make it snug, but not so snug that you can’t get your foot out of it either. POINT YOUR TOE WHILE YOU DO THIS. Additionally, wear the shoe while you pin it around your foot; it’ll need to fit over the shoe in the end anyway. Don’t worry about the bottom of your foot; it’s easier if you make the curve under your heel snug, and the front of your toes, but you’re not going to be closing off the bottom.
When you have it pinned neatly and evenly, trim the edges down. Leave enough excess for seam allowance along the back, and enough for tucking on the bottom. (Tucking into the sole, that is.) Take it off your foot and you should have some weird shape (like a mirrored version of the pattern I have pictured above.)
Now: if you trace that onto pattern paper and smooth out any raggedness you may have made in cutting, you have your basic pattern. Then all you have to do is alter the top of the pattern: a /\ point for Wonder Woman, a V for Supergirl, etc. Because we’re making Supergirl, here, you’ll want it to be in two pieces, as shown in the pattern above. Wherever you cut to change the design, be sure that you add seam allowance (as you can see on our bottom pattern.) Also make sure that the top edge of your sock is snug enough to your calf that you won’t have to constantly bend to fix them.
I’ve taken pictures of my and Christine’s patterns. Obviously, if you don’t want a seam down the front, you need to cut the fabric on a fold. You will need four of the top cuff and two of the “sock”; the top cuff is two-layered so it’s got a clean top!
Sew all the cuffs: in the last picture, that’s what they should look like. First, sew them all at the back seam. Then layer them together to sew the top seam, so that when you fold them right-side out, you have finished cuffs as pictured. Topstitch whatever you want.
Sew the sock’s back seam.
Sew the cuff to the sock. Be very careful about the corners, so that they are sharp. Again, topstitch whatever works.
Use the exacto-knife to separate the shoe from the sole. Don’t take the whole sole off — you don’t want to pop it out of alignment, or compromise TOO much of the shoe’s integrity. You just need enough opened that you can tuck the bottom edge of your sock into the space between.
Once your whole sock is finished, it’s time for the crazy part: put it on, with your shoe. Then, with the help of a friend or with the acknowledgement that your spine will hurt trying to do it to yourself, start putting the bottom edge of the sock under the edge of the sole, and gluing in place. We have found hot glue works best because it hardens/sets fast: anything else and you may be stuck sitting there wearing your shoes for HOURS trying not to ruin your work.
Now you have boots.
Go kick some supervillain ass, girl.
As long as you picked fur out of the seams nicely, it’ll actually look fine! Seams + fur is surprisingly forgiving, if you’ve got the patience.
Having problems finding a lipstick color for your cosplay? Look no further. I just found someone’s video tutorial on how to make lipsticks out of crayons. In the video she says that she found out that all of her favourite lipsticks had lead and that she found out that she could make lipstick out of lead free crayons. The entire time I was watching this video, I thought that it would work amazingly for someone looking for some cerulean blue lipstick for Vriska or Jade green lipstick for Kanaya or maybe some other cosplay character who has a weird lipstick color. In the video she also says that you could mix crayon colors to make weird colors.
I don’t even wear lipstick ever, but learning you can make it out of crayons now got me all excited to try it. o-o
The powder will be okay, but you’ll want to be careful just to be safe.
BUCK TEETH ARE HELLA CUTE, WHATEVAWHATEVA. Haters should sit down and shut up, cosplay whoever you’d like. :3
-Horn Cracking Help-
I had this problem when making my Karkat/Sufferer horns a while back and i finally fixed it.
So as you can see my horns both have a giant FISSURES running though them.
They are made out of model magic so of course they are going to crack somewhere.
With some advice help from babinani, I filled them with super glue.
Now superglue and i dont get along too well as you can see in the following pictures:
It always somehow drips onto my desk and ruins it……..
But nevertheless it worked. It filled most of the crack.
and what i had figured out a while back with my cracked kanaya horns is that you can use Wood Filler to fill smaller cracks. (this is why i didnt just use wood filler to fill the cracks in my kk horns.)
I then smoothed it out and sanded it down
You can still see the cracks but when you sand them they are flat.
This is what they look like after painting:
and yes this is the side with the filled cracks.
aptronymicapollyon replied to your post: With things like Rose’s grimdark outfit (the undershirt/sash), where it’s possible to buy one item but the other has to be made, would you recommend buying (for instance) the shirt and then the material for the sash, or buying both in white then dying them, or just going the extra bit and sewing both the sash and the undershirt from the same fabric?
you can also buy fabric and then “fake” the undershirt by sewing in the sleeves and collar to your black overshirt. It’s a helluva lot easier than sewing a shirt/trying to match fabrics.
Also a good point, thank you!
If you want to buy the shirt and make the sash, absolutely buy the shirt first. If you do that, you can take the shirt with you when you buy the fabric for the sash, and match up one with the other. The problem you might run into is that you can’t find a colour that matches, but you should be able to find something close enough that you can’t tell the difference.
Your best bet is buying the fabric and just making both of them out of the same colour, but you’d have to spend more time with that. If you have the time to spare, I’d suggest doing it like this, but you’d also probably have just as much luck buying the undershirt and then finding fabric for the sash to match it.
I definitely do not suggest dying them, though, because you run the risk of using different fabrics for each, and they will dye differently. (There’s a good example here with a RIT dye colour chart vs. fabric types.)
Yeah, if worse comes to worst, but it’s got to go on kinda thick and can crack? I used to ghetto laminate notebooks and stuff with PVA glue as a kid. Get it in the light too much and it yellows. Water it down so it applies more evenly, but it can take forever to dry at that point. It’s by no means a bad solution, but not a great one either.
THE INTERTUBES INFORM ME THAT 1 part water to 3 parts glue is pretty workable as a sealant.